- This topic has 31 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 14 years, 8 months ago by .
-
Posts
-
Eleu, don’t use masking fluid on a painted part. Will lift the paint off. I guess it’s just a matter of being careful what you’re doing.
Kujacker wrote:Eleu, don’t use masking fluid on a painted part. Will lift the paint off. I guess it’s just a matter of being careful what you’re doing.
My thoughts exactly. Just use a small paintbrush when applying the antiquing liquid and small pieces of paper towel (that’s what I use) to remove it.
Read my books! Volume 1 and 2 of A Dragon Medley are available now.
http://www.sarahjestin.com/mybooks.htm
I host the feedback lists, which are maintained by drag0nfeathers.
http://www.sarahjestin.com/feedbacklists.htmThank you all, glad I didn’t try that then :* I suppose it takes some planning so you can cover up areas if you goof 😳
for antiquing.. I always finish how I want it painted.. and then put sealer on.. after that’s dry I put the antiquing on.. and use a damp papertowel to take off the extra.. it works really well and doesn’t take any paint off the underneath.. then after what I’ve antiqued is dry.. just add more sealer overtop..
I use Golden’s fluid line, but I’ve had them before I started doing PYOs. I figured since I already had them, might as well use them. 😀 I also have Citadel’s paint for RPG miniatures, but I’ve never tried them on the PYOs.
Since I’ve painted figurines, I already have sort of a painting technique… but I’m finding that I can’t paint in the same way because the PYOs are much bigger. I need to change my technique a little. First, I have to get it through my thick skull that you can’t paint a PYO in one sitting! XD I’m an impatient person, so I have to tell myself to take my time and do not rush and enjoy the painting experience. I make less mistakes when I take the time to do it right in the first place. LOL! I also need to get a retarder to slow the drying time since the PYOs are bigger than my minis. I need more time to blend colors.
The muse is kicking my butt right now! 😈
Leigha wrote:doing small areas at a time and being careful about it.
Antiquing is a pain in the ass…
Heard that! 😛
If it is all possible to dry brush in order to achieve the same idea, I do that instead. I hate to antique, but I am getting better at it….ssssllllllllooooooowwwwwwlllllyyyy. 😆I antique with thinned acrylics instead of the gel so I really can’t offer advice with the gel, but as Frozen mentioned, Eleu, you might want to try clearcoating before antiquing. Especially gloss coating, because the paint doesn’t stick as easily so you can clean up any stray antique with a damp paper towel.
Also, I keep a dry or slightly damp small round brush handy so if antique does stray, depending on where the antique found itself, I either push it back with the brush tip or clean out the crevices with the brush.
Goof ups happen. I’m constantly fixing things.
NEED MORE HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!
I took your advice to get Krylon clear coat spray but when I went to the store they had clear gloss….clear satin…and clear flat….??? Which one do I get?? Please help!
EDIT: Also, should I put a layer of white or another paint color to keep the first colors from absorbing in?
kenziesmommy663 wrote:NEED MORE HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!
I took your advice to get Krylon clear coat spray but when I went to the store they had clear gloss….clear satin…and clear flat….??? Which one do I get?? Please help!
EDIT: Also, should I put a layer of white or another paint color to keep the first colors from absorbing in?
gloss is if you want it shiny.. satin is a sheen but not extremely shiny and flat.. well it’s dull (I would put it on a wolf for a more natural finish)
so it’s up to you which one you want to get.. I got Valspar as the brand.. it doesn’t seem to run as much as krylon.. although most of the time I use a brush on sealer..
and what do you mean “should I put a layer of white or another paint color to keep the first colors from absorbing in” if you’re talking about putting that on again after sealing no..
you paint it how you want and to antique it.. spray it then use the color you want to antique with…
but if you’re talking white as a base coat and then painting it with different colors then sealing it.. yes..frozendragon wrote:kenziesmommy663 wrote:NEED MORE HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!
I took your advice to get Krylon clear coat spray but when I went to the store they had clear gloss….clear satin…and clear flat….??? Which one do I get?? Please help!
EDIT: Also, should I put a layer of white or another paint color to keep the first colors from absorbing in?
gloss is if you want it shiny.. satin is a sheen but not extremely shiny and flat.. well it’s dull (I would put it on a wolf for a more natural finish)
so it’s up to you which one you want to get.. I got Valspar as the brand.. it doesn’t seem to run as much as krylon.. although most of the time I use a brush on sealer..
and what do you mean “should I put a layer of white or another paint color to keep the first colors from absorbing in” if you’re talking about putting that on again after sealing no..
you paint it how you want and to antique it.. spray it then use the color you want to antique with…
but if you’re talking white as a base coat and then painting it with different colors then sealing it.. yes..Yes, I was talking about putting a coat of white paint on first before the color paint then seal it when I am finished. Someone earlier in the thread said that the first coats of paint soak in a lot becase the gypsum will soak it up. So I want to know if I should start with a coat of white paint before I start to paint the color on.
Paint brands:
Any artist’s, craft, or student quality acrylic will work on PYOs! Use what you enjoy working with the most. Some paints seem to ‘take’ better than others, and yes some are archival while some are not. Bearing this in mind, unless it’s important to you to produce high end ‘intended-for-generations’ paint jobs, use what you like best and hang the rest! 😉I use golden brand because of the quality of the color and archival qualities, and Windstone has them tested and true and since I work for Windstone guess what I need to use? 😉 But I have used them so much that I like them ‘best’ because that is what I am most used to! There is no right and wrong way in art!
Sealer:
This is personal preference only. I like to use gloss on dragons, to make the scales shiny. I use satin on gryphons to make their feathers just a little shiny but not glossy. I like to use matte on furred things like wolves. You can get real creative and use different finishes on different parts of the sculpture, but use this technique with care, as it’s easy to goof up!Base coating:
Base coat with whatever color you prefer. I always use white because that is how I get the most vibrant colors. Base coating with different colors will produce different effects as you layer paint– unfortunately really the only way to know what will do what is to experiment! It also matters if your paints are translucent or opaque. Translucent paint will allow the under layer to show through, while opaque won’t if applied at full strength. You can make opaque paint translucent by thinning it.Volunteer mod- I'm here to help! Email me for the best response: nambroth at gmail.com
My art: featherdust.comThanks Jennifer! I have started on my keeper without a base and the color is taking VERY well, however….I have learned to fully rotate the dragon because the scales are 3D. LOL 😀 Doing well so far, and I have to say that it is very relaxing. 🙂
yup.. I love painting the PYO’s it’s very stress relieving.. but I really want something new.. I’ve painted way too many of the the other sculpts.. LOL
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
Recent Comments