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FlamingDragon:
the basecoats may be the problem. What are you using for a basecoat? Is the basecoat coming off too? Or is the paint just sliding/peeling off of the basecoat? If you’re getting the basecoat on too thick, it may not be getting a chance to dry/cure long enough before you put the paint on.
The Liquitex should feel completely dry with no tackiness or drag to it. It sounds like you may be getting the paint on too thick. You might try thinning your paint with a few drops of water. (Just the part that you are using at the time, not the whole bottle or tube.) You’ll have to put more layers on, but it’ll turn out nicer that way anyway. You could also try using a hairdryer to dry the paint in between layers. That’s what I do when I’m tired of waiting for paint to dry. HTH!WindstoneCollector wrote:I found out they show very well on a black background. The black acryllic was pretty dry when I did it, but slightly tacky. I even aked Nam about it first. I did find they don’t stick well for me on a blank sculpt. 😯 He will be up for grabs when he makes it to the finish line. 😉 LOL
Wow! He’s really pretty even if he’s unfinished! Lovely colors!
I heard somewhere that you can mix the Pearl Ex in with the paint. Has anyone tried it? Or does it say that you can on the bottle? I don’t have any, but am interested in trying it sometime.FlamingDragon wrote:I’ve got another painting question.
I’ve been having problems with small spots of paint peeling off or some areas rubbing off if I handle it very much so I’m constantly having to touch up. I tried to handle the statue very little before I got a base coat on it. I have tried to follow all the tips I could find to prevent the paint from peeling and have even tried latex gloves(which made matters worse, the paint sticks to the gloves even worse than my fingers) It seems that the heat from my hands as I hold the dragon causes the dry(1-7days) paint to get soft and peel off in small spots ever now and then while I’m working on the fine details. Does anyone have any tips to prevent the paint (I’m using liquitex) from coming peeling/rubbing off?I use Liquitex all the time. Is this happening on just one sculpture? If so, my guess is that there’s something in between the paint and the sculpture that’s preventing the paint from bonding. It could be something from your hands (dirt,oil, etc.) or possibly mold release. Which is something that is used to make sure the sculpture doesn’t stick to the mold and comes out easily.
If it’s happening on all of your painted pieces, check to see if it’s just a certain color. You may have a bad batch. I’ve never had Liquitex “go bad” on me and I’ve had some bottles for 5 or 6 years now and am still using them. But you could’ve gotten some that wasn’t good to begin with.You know, that’s a good point Zelda. Maybe the sealant manufacturer changed the formula in the sealant. Krylon has done that a couple of times and I hate it. I really liked the original formula of their matte sealer a lot better than the new formula.
To me there wasn’t anything wrong with it so why change it?
Or like you said, maybe they sent a batch that wasn’t mixed well or something.Hoofer wrote:Is there any chance that this thread could be ‘stickied’ so that it doesn’t go away? Perhaps the title to the thread could also be changed to something more appropriate say, “Bubble-wrap can be harmful for long term Windstone Storage – Read here!”
This really is an important tidbit of information about how NOT to wrap/store a Windstone long term.
Who would have thought, given enough time and the right circumstances, that bubble-wrap could cause that kind of damage to the clear coat finish of a Windstone?
I have to say again, that I’m new here and I don’t know if it’s a big problem with the Windstones. My experience has been with model horses. Have there been many people who’ve had the finish on their Windstones go sticky? If it’s isolated to maybe only one or two incidents, I’d say it was an individual thing. If it’s more often, then it could be something to watch for. And it’s not just bubble-wrap. It’s plastic in general…plastic bags, bubble-wrap, Wal-Mart type bags, etc. in addition to humidity (whether it’s hot or not).
Lokie wrote:I know that paint doesn’t like to behave as well on glossy services, so I’m not sure how easy it is to antique on a PYO that was sealed with a gloss finish. Maybe members who have more experience sealing before antiquing will chime in.
Yeah, I think it would be better to use a matte or satin.
I’ve learned that if you seal your paintwork with Krylon and then put paint on top of that, you can fix mistakes and erase with rubbing alcohol really easily. It doesn’t hurt the finish at all. I suppose it could if you rubbed really hard or put a lot of alcohol on though. I just use a Q-tip to clean up mistakes. This is for acrylic paint, btw.Another question….. 😉
I really like the antiquing that you guys do on the dragons. It looks so cool and really makes the details pop. I’ve read about the antiquing and using the gel, or an acrylic paint wash. But do you seal the piece before you antique it?
I haven’t antiqued anything before so I’m kinda nervous about putting a coating over my paintwork at the end and not being able to get it off where I need to.
I’ve already visualized being satisfied with my dragon’s colors and then turning it into a muddy mess at the end. LOL!
I figure at least if it’s sealed first, I’d be able to clean off the antiquing if I messed up.
I’m planning on painting by airbrush first, so antiquing first, like Koishii, wouldn’t work. I may try hand brushing another one, but it’s been years since I totally hand brushed anything and there’s no telling how it would turn out. 😯Zelda,
Have you had any luck with fixing your dragon yet? I’m interested in hearing about the lamp method. I hadn’t heard of that before, but it makes sense. Seems like it would be really tricky with model horses and you’d have to watch them closely so they don’t distort. But I can see where it could work on re-softening the finish to get it to smooth out.
You don’t have to worry about distortion with the dragons and I don’t think the lamp heat is enough to alter the paint.For the most part, I lived no farther than 20 minutes away from my parents. They’re gone now and I’m glad that I got to see them often.
Cherish your time with your parents even if it seems difficult at times.Hey Jennifer,
Don’t feel bad. I had to live with my parents a couple of times when I was young and having a hard time. It’ll get better! 🙂Thanks for all of the great replies! It looks like the Windstones do well with any kind of basecoat, which is great!
This will be a lot of fun for me….I’ll get to do something in beautiful flowery colors which is a big change from “horse” colors. 😀
I’ll definitely be out of my box. LOL!
Does anyone use PearlEx powders?Hi mmloda,
Thanks for your reply. 🙂
I’m referring to an actual primer that is put on before the paint. It has some extra “tooth” or roughness to it so that the paint sticks better to the sculpture.
I’m just curious as to how it would work with the Windstone material.
Primer comes in white,gray, rust & black. Gray is the most common color.
Have you had any problems with peeling or paint lifting later, when you’ve used the white paint as a base coat?It’s neat to hear that there are some model horse collectors here like me!
The sticky finish/bubble wrap problem is a big one in model horsedom. It’s a huge horror as well.
I don’t know what type of paint or finish Melody uses. If it’s any kind of acrylic, the acetone will take it all off down to the pre-painted surface. Which would be worse than the wrinkles. The best thing I’ve found to fix the problem is use 500-600 grit sandpaper. Sand the rough parts down and respray it with the finishing spray.
As far as model horses go, the theory is that the finish (generally Krylon, an acrylic finish)has a chemical reaction when it’s wrapped in plastic before it’s had time to cure. The chemicals in the finish leach out as it cures and if it’s in plastic, it has no where to go and causes a reaction with the plastic. Usually it happens when the piece has been stored in the plastic for an extended period of time. Usually humidity plays a part in the disaster too. Just wrapping and shipping one (as far as model horses go) isn’t long enough for one to go sticky. If you were to leave it wrapped after you got it though… not good.
I always let my custom (i.e. painted by me, rather than the factory) horses cure on the shelf for a few days before I ship them. And I caution the new owners to never store them, but to leave them out on a shelf to breathe.
There have been horror stories of tissue paper of various sorts imbedded into the finish of horses so I never, ever leave a horse wrapped in t.p.
I haven’t had any experience with the Windstones, but this seems very similar to what happens to model horses. If you have model horses wrapped in any kind of plastic, free them now! 🙂 HTH!I’m wondering if you can use primer on a PYO before you paint it?
I’ve been painting model horses made of acetate plastic and resin for quite a while and I always prime them first. I know the Windstones are made of a different type of material that is apparently fairly porous.
I’m wondering if a primer would work as a sealer to even out the porosity or if it would work at all.
Has anyone ever tried it? If so, what happened?
I’ve ordered my first 2 PYO’s so I’m excited to start painting them when they get here. But I’m trying to do some research before I start so that I don’t mess them up.
