Your method of antiquing

[Lokie]

[Lokie]

Melody, what method and product does Windstone use to antique their production pieces? And if this is a closely guarded secret where you’d have to kill me after you told me, then feel free to tell me to scram or mind my own beeswax (or both).

[Jennifer]

Lokie wrote:

Melody, what method and product does Windstone use to antique their production pieces? And if this is a closely guarded secret where you’d have to kill me after you told me, then feel free to tell me to scram or mind my own beeswax (or both).

I can answer this, a little bit, while we wait for Melody. 🙂

Last I knew they use essentially the same method I describe in the PYO tutorial, only instead of using paintbrushes to apply the antique, they spray it on, let it nearly dry, then wipe it off with a damp sponge.

Last I spoke to John about it they use a type of stain that consumers cannot buy (either they have it custom made, or they only sell it to companies in bulk… something like that). They sent me a small amount to work with and I’ve found that it is nearly identical to work with as the ‘antiquing’ gel that most PYO painters use. 🙂

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[Purplecat]

oooh…interesting! thanks for sharing! 😀

[Jasmine]

Cool. Thanks Nam, never really thought about it before.

[Lokie]

Thank you, Nambroth, for providing some information 🙂 I’d been rather curious about this.

[Melody]

Lokie wrote:

Melody, what method and product does Windstone use to antique their production pieces? And if this is a closely guarded secret where you’d have to kill me after you told me, then feel free to tell me to scram or mind my own beeswax (or both).

It isn’t a secret, though we have our own mix we make ourselves that has just the right “slime factor” for the production way we use it. We use a combination of Mayco brand stain, and acrylic paint and I’m not sure what else…we have a recipe somewhere…but the big trick to having an antique work well is to be sure the piece you are antiquing is well sealed with a good clear coat.We use regular (moist, but not wet) cellulose sponges to wipe it off. If the piece isn’t clear coated well enough it will absorb the antique and it won’t come clean when you wipe it. If too much antique wipes off, allow it to dry a bit longer before wiping. As long as you clear coat your piece well, Mayco stain is pretty safe.It can be wiped off easily. When you are satisfied with the antique job you’ve done, you need to seal it on with one last coat of clear acrylic.
(It is possible that Mayco stain is no longer available in amll amounts from art stores.)

[Jennifer]

Whoa, you antique after clear-coating? Huh! I do it beforehand, even with the Mayco stain.

Volunteer mod- I'm here to help! Email me for the best response: nambroth at gmail.com
My art: featherdust.com

[Lokie]

Thank you, Melody, for explaining your process (and not telling me to scram :lol:)!

[frozendragon]

Jennifer wrote:

Whoa, you antique after clear-coating? Huh! I do it beforehand, even with the Mayco stain.

I was doing that too.. until I had a piece to fix.. and it wouldn’t come out right.. then Melody told me to clearcoat first.. and it came out great…

so I’ve started doing it on just about everything I paint.. and it has a much cleaner look to it.. although I do still like to do it before on some things…

[Purplecat]

yeah….I’ve been clearcoating before I antique too, though I’ve been painting on my antique, rather than spraying it. I had problems with the lower layers coming off, or absorbing parts of the antique color before I started with the clearcoat. I’m excited to try out the method of spraying it on. 🙂

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