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Well, this is my first time asking a PYO question on the forum. So here goes. I recently spotted Distress Ink Stains in my local JoAnn’s store and was wondering if anyone has had any experience using dyes/inks to stain a PYO piece? The inks are alcohol based and meant for porous surfaces. Think it has a shot at working? The idea is really appealing to me, but I don’t want to waste a PYO if it has no chance at turning out. Any advice or sharing of experiences would be really appreciated. Thanks in advance!
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https://www.redbubble.com/people/prezaurian?ref=artist_title_nameHey I have stained with archival calligraphy inks, but mine are water based. I am not sure how different the alcohol based ones are but here are some general tips I have:
1.) All pieces absorb inks and stains differently. Some spots will suck it right up, and others will need a bit more the achieve darker tones.
2.) Start a little at a time. More ink = darker color. And GO SLOW, once its on, its not coming off and cannot be repaired by just adding a new layer/color as paint often can. Patience is key. Try to allow layers to dry completely, so you don’t water-log the poor thing. Doing so can help prevent details of the piece from wearing from the liquid.
3.) If using water based ink, DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT use a water based brush on varnish such as acrylic. Use a spray, and in very thin layers. The alternative will have a bleaching affect.
4.) Remember that as the piece sucks up the medium (ex. alcohol, water, etc.) It leaves the ink/ tea pigment on the surface. This means constant handling can fade and remove any un-protected pigment as you are working. Just something to keep in mind.
5.) Also, as the stone is absorptive, it can absorb your skin oils, which can have varyied affects as to how it will absorb the ink. Acrylic, and other primers will also absorb at different rates and amount leading other varied affects.
And as a final note, Sunlight, overtime will fade ink pigments. The affect is much more noticeable with ink than other paints, so a UV preventive varnish is recommended. I very much like working with the ink, and absolutely love the affect it gives the PYO’s, which is vastly different than paints. It helps to keep in mind, to just go slow, take your time, and don’t put ink anywhere you don’t want it. Have Fun!
Recently married to the ever lovable BiPolarBear (little John)
www.weaselsoneasels.com | www.facebook.com/weaselsoneaselsAs seen on This is Life with Lisa Ling on CNN (2018) !
Always open for pyo commissions, repairs and fine artwork! Email me for current prices! awier(@)weaselsoneasels.comHey I have stained with archival calligraphy inks, but mine are water based. I am not sure how different the alcohol based ones are but here are some general tips I have:
1.) All pieces absorb inks and stains differently. Some spots will suck it right up, and others will need a bit more the achieve darker tones.
2.) Start a little at a time. More ink = darker color. And GO SLOW, once its on, its not coming off and cannot be repaired by just adding a new layer/color as paint often can. Patience is key. Try to allow layers to dry completely, so you don’t water-log the poor thing. Doing so can help prevent details of the piece from wearing from the liquid.
3.) If using water based ink, DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT use a water based brush on varnish such as acrylic. Use a spray, and in very thin layers. The alternative will have a bleaching affect.
4.) Remember that as the piece sucks up the medium (ex. alcohol, water, etc.) It leaves the ink/ tea pigment on the surface. This means constant handling can fade and remove any un-protected pigment as you are working. Just something to keep in mind.
5.) Also, as the stone is absorptive, it can absorb your skin oils, which can have varyied affects as to how it will absorb the ink. Acrylic, and other primers will also absorb at different rates and amount leading other varied affects.
And as a final note, Sunlight, overtime will fade ink pigments. The affect is much more noticeable with ink than other paints, so a UV preventive varnish is recommended. I very much like working with the ink, and absolutely love the affect it gives the PYO’s, which is vastly different than paints. It helps to keep in mind, to just go slow, take your time, and don’t put ink anywhere you don’t want it. Have Fun!
Thanks so much for the detailed information! Especially the note about the water based varnish. I’ve read about the alcohol based ink and water does effect it (dilutes the color) so that was an important note. What type of varnish would you recommend?
You can check out my work on dA & Redbubble!
https://prezaurian.deviantart.com/
https://www.redbubble.com/people/prezaurian?ref=artist_title_nameI have used many, i have about 12 different finishes on my shelf right now. A good basic cheap one (runs about 5.95- 6.95 a can) Is Mod Podge. It is nothing fancy, but comes in matte and gloss. I like using Matte or satin finishes over the inks but its you own disgrestion. Btw, if you plan on doing acrylic or anything with stain as a base you have to pray it in between.
One i like that is a bit more pricey, is Golden Archival Varnish w/UVLS. It goes on kind of thicker than the Mod Podge, so you have to be careful. Lots of (4-5 but as many as 9) really thin layers is much better than 2-3 thick layers. Thick layers dull the pigment. The UVLS is important, because ink likes to fade in the sun. So I recommend this, with 1 layer of a thinner cheaper brand underneath. (Mod Podge, Krylon etc.) The reason is that the cheaper brand has weaker spray, and the strong spray of the other can blow of some of the pigment. The golden usually runs at 25 ish for a can, but look around, I’ve seen it as low as 21 in store, and Blick ( http://www.dickblick.com/products/golden-archival-spray-varnish/?clickTracking=true ) has it for 15.75, but it has restrictions as to where they can ship it.
I know the UVLS can be very pricey, but you can make one can go a long way, and it can be very important to how much and how fast the inks can fade in sun if you are selling. I hope that this helps.
Recently married to the ever lovable BiPolarBear (little John)
www.weaselsoneasels.com | www.facebook.com/weaselsoneaselsAs seen on This is Life with Lisa Ling on CNN (2018) !
Always open for pyo commissions, repairs and fine artwork! Email me for current prices! awier(@)weaselsoneasels.comMy information really just applies to ink. I have never stained with tea, so I have little information as to that kind of stain.
Oh, the brand of ink I absolutely love the most is this. => Colorful Prose Calligraphy Ink Set http://www.barnesandnoble.com/p/home-gift-colorful-prose-calligraphy-ink-set/21882251.
I have tried so many colored inks, both for calligraphy and staining, and this has the best color pigmentation and thickness of any inks I have ever found or used. You can only find it really in bookstores, giftshops etc. It is made to match the quality of older, archival inks. It is very pricey, but well worth the money, and a little goes a long way. The higher pigment saturation means you can use less to stain, and building up color layers is really easy. As it is water based, you can thin it as needed. This is may own personal recommendation, if you are willing to spend that much.
Recently married to the ever lovable BiPolarBear (little John)
www.weaselsoneasels.com | www.facebook.com/weaselsoneaselsAs seen on This is Life with Lisa Ling on CNN (2018) !
Always open for pyo commissions, repairs and fine artwork! Email me for current prices! awier(@)weaselsoneasels.comI have used many, i have about 12 different finishes on my shelf right now. A good basic cheap one (runs about 5.95- 6.95 a can) Is Mod Podge. It is nothing fancy, but comes in matte and gloss. I like using Matte or satin finishes over the inks but its you own disgrestion. Btw, if you plan on doing acrylic or anything with stain as a base you have to pray it in between.
One i like that is a bit more pricey, is Golden Archival Varnish w/UVLS. It goes on kind of thicker than the Mod Podge, so you have to be careful. Lots of (4-5 but as many as 9) really thin layers is much better than 2-3 thick layers. Thick layers dull the pigment. The UVLS is important, because ink likes to fade in the sun. So I recommend this, with 1 layer of a thinner cheaper brand underneath. (Mod Podge, Krylon etc.) The reason is that the cheaper brand has weaker spray, and the strong spray of the other can blow of some of the pigment. The golden usually runs at 25 ish for a can, but look around, I’ve seen it as low as 21 in store, and Blick ( http://www.dickblick.com/products/golden-archival-spray-varnish/?clickTracking=true ) has it for 15.75, but it has restrictions as to where they can ship it.
I know the UVLS can be very pricey, but you can make one can go a long way, and it can be very important to how much and how fast the inks can fade in sun if you are selling. I hope that this helps.
Okay, got it. I was considering using acrylic with stain for accents, so I was wondering what you meant by pray it? Let it rest between the application of the stain and application of the acrylic?
But again, thanks so much for the info. I was trying to look up information on staining gypsum/stone and coming up with zilch on the net!
The inks you’ve pointed out look very nice and I appreciate the link. Initially though, I’m going to try experimenting with a cheaper stain and see how it goes. When I finish some of the pieces I’m on, I’ll get a gryphon to work on. I’m looking forward to it! Thanks again!
You can check out my work on dA & Redbubble!
https://prezaurian.deviantart.com/
https://www.redbubble.com/people/prezaurian?ref=artist_title_namesorry, SPRAY it, you want to use a SPRAY varnish. lol
Recently married to the ever lovable BiPolarBear (little John)
www.weaselsoneasels.com | www.facebook.com/weaselsoneaselsAs seen on This is Life with Lisa Ling on CNN (2018) !
Always open for pyo commissions, repairs and fine artwork! Email me for current prices! awier(@)weaselsoneasels.comThis is very interesting.I have never heard of this nor have a seen a piece done this way.I don’t think so anyway.Can one of you post something you have done?I want to see what it looks like please? Also,do you not put a base coat on the pyo before the ink like we do with paints?
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Male Hearth....one day🤞Dream on.This is very interesting.I have never heard of this nor have a seen a piece done this way.I don’t think so anyway.Can one of you post something you have done?I want to see what it looks like please? Also,do you not put a base coat on the pyo before the ink like we do with paints?
That is a good question. I’m not familiar with inks/stains so I can’t answer about the base coat (other than to guess you don’t put one down, I think it would interfere with the pyo’s porousness which is needed for inks/stains). But I’m more than happy to put pictures of the PYO I plan on trying to stain…when I get to it. lol I have a few other PYOs ahead of it.
You can check out my work on dA & Redbubble!
https://prezaurian.deviantart.com/
https://www.redbubble.com/people/prezaurian?ref=artist_title_nameYa, I’ll post give me afew min. and yes, NO BASE COAT. Acrylic and other base coats don’t like to absorb the ink as well as the platser itself.. I have only doen a few in ink, but I have pics of the first one.
EDIT**** ok here she is.
Keroa the sunset phoenix. She is the only one I have pictures of currently, and she was never treated for UV so she is not this bright anymore. Anyways, the rock was primed w/ white acrylic prior to the stain, so a totally different affect. She was my first stain and my second completed PYO. I have four others in progress right now, Including one I am using partial ink stains, one w/acrylic stain/detail and pastel, one in pan pastel and leafing, and a fourth that im thinking i will stain. I’ll really have to add some photos to my pyo thread when I have them and some time.
EDIT** 6/3/13
Here is a kyrin i am working on as well as a stained portion of a gryffin in progress.
kyrin
and the griff
his claws beak and some of the neck feathers (the greys and blacks)
the difference between the green and the gray on the griff is a great reference to show how differnt ink appears compared to paint. done properly they can accent each other quite well.
sorry typos in a hurry. hope this helps!
Recently married to the ever lovable BiPolarBear (little John)
www.weaselsoneasels.com | www.facebook.com/weaselsoneaselsAs seen on This is Life with Lisa Ling on CNN (2018) !
Always open for pyo commissions, repairs and fine artwork! Email me for current prices! awier(@)weaselsoneasels.comDo folks usually do a base coat on gypsum? I always just paint the colors on… 🙂
I don’t usually put on a base coat, unless I’m working with a particularly un-opaque color – like this one red I have.
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Recently married to the ever lovable BiPolarBear (little John)
www.weaselsoneasels.com | www.facebook.com/weaselsoneaselsAs seen on This is Life with Lisa Ling on CNN (2018) !
Always open for pyo commissions, repairs and fine artwork! Email me for current prices! awier(@)weaselsoneasels.comDo folks usually do a base coat on gypsum? I always just paint the colors on… 🙂
I think it also depends on the method/style of painting you use as well as the kind of paint. When I first started painting I didn’t thin the paint. Just brushed it on straight. When I was doing that I put down a base coat. Now I’m trying a different method where I thin the paint and apply it in washes. For that I’m not putting down base coats. I must say that this new method is really appealing to me.
But when I’m done with my current pieces I’m going to try the ink stains. The acrylic paint washes look like they behave in a similar fashion to the ink staining method so I’m hoping it will give me practice before I try the ink.
Also, I have a side question. What does everyone think is a good way to showcase your most recent work? The PYO gallery doesn’t seem the most conducive way even though it’s the most convenient.
You can check out my work on dA & Redbubble!
https://prezaurian.deviantart.com/
https://www.redbubble.com/people/prezaurian?ref=artist_title_nameDo folks usually do a base coat on gypsum? I always just paint the colors on… 🙂
Also, I have a side question. What does everyone think is a good way to showcase your most recent work? The PYO gallery doesn’t seem the most conducive way even though it’s the most convenient.
I’ve seen that many users will make a ” ____’s PYO Thread” under the pyo forum. That is what I do, since I haven’t been able to upload to the gallery. Then, when you add a new piece, Just edit the title of the original post to say something like “Prezaurian’s PYO Thread **New 10/12/13” for example.
On another note..I should add some more stain photos…
and…Does anyone think I should start a thread that explains some basics on ink and or ink/pastel stains, like tips, what to do, what not to do..etc? We have a general one for paint, and one for brands, but neither really point in that direction.
Recently married to the ever lovable BiPolarBear (little John)
www.weaselsoneasels.com | www.facebook.com/weaselsoneaselsAs seen on This is Life with Lisa Ling on CNN (2018) !
Always open for pyo commissions, repairs and fine artwork! Email me for current prices! awier(@)weaselsoneasels.com
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