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What is the correct gem size for the muse, KoishiiKitty? Thanks for the link – it’s very helpful: -)
lamortefille wrote:What is the correct gem size for the muse, KoishiiKitty? Thanks for the link – it’s very helpful: -)
I have not seen the muse up close yet, so I have no idea. I WILL be getting my muse tomorow though, so I can check and let you know the size(unles Nam or some one else already knows)
KoishiiKitty wrote:lamortefille wrote:What is the correct gem size for the muse, KoishiiKitty? Thanks for the link – it’s very helpful: -)
I have not seen the muse up close yet, so I have no idea. I WILL be getting my muse tomorow though, so I can check and let you know the size(unles Nam or some one else already knows)
Ugh- I’m not home right now. I’m WiFi hopping to get some work done today- if no one finds out by tomorrow I’ll go check my muse and see what size gems fit it! 🙂
Volunteer mod- I'm here to help! Email me for the best response: nambroth at gmail.com
My art: featherdust.comFor people in the Alberta-ish are, Delta Art in Edmonton (by the city airport, not the international, it’s right by Kingsway) carries brands such as Liquitex and Golden – on a regular basis. Also, it was on sale recently, I don’t know if it was because they were old or not.
I don’t think they ship, since my fiancee’s mother has to go to Edmonton from Grande Prairie (5 hour drive) just to get her supplies, but the phone number is,
(780)455 7983.Probably not useful to alot of people but figured I would post it anyway.
Any suggestions on brand or type of airbrush equipment to use? I’m totally new to airbrushing and am considering giving it a try. Have no idea the difference between the $30 airbrush kit you get at Michael’s vs. the $300 kit you get at a high end art supply store. And any preferences for the gravity style (paint jar on top of brush) vs. siphon style (paint jar on bottom of brush)?
Also, for the antiquing process, has anyone tried using thinner and doing a “wash”? We used to use that technique all the time on our tiny handpainted metal figurines for tabletop gaming (dude I’m such a geek 😳 ) rather than adding a thicker gel and then sponging the raised surfaces off. Making the paint really thin and then letting it run into the recesses did achieve a nice shading/detailing effect. Most of the time we didn’t need to sponge off the figurine because the paint was so thin, it would naturally run into the crevices. Anyone tried this? Are there unforeseen technical difficulties that make this an unwise approach?
Jerusha wrote:Any suggestions on brand or type of airbrush equipment to use? I’m totally new to airbrushing and am considering giving it a try. Have no idea the difference between the $30 airbrush kit you get at Michael’s vs. the $300 kit you get at a high end art supply store. And any preferences for the gravity style (paint jar on top of brush) vs. siphon style (paint jar on bottom of brush)?
Also, for the antiquing process, has anyone tried using thinner and doing a “wash”? We used to use that technique all the time on our tiny handpainted metal figurines for tabletop gaming (dude I’m such a geek 😳 ) rather than adding a thicker gel and then sponging the raised surfaces off. Making the paint really thin and then letting it run into the recesses did achieve a nice shading/detailing effect. Most of the time we didn’t need to sponge off the figurine because the paint was so thin, it would naturally run into the crevices. Anyone tried this? Are there unforeseen technical difficulties that make this an unwise approach?
Hi there! For some reason I didn’t see this question when you posted it. I’m sorry!
I think I already answered as much as I can about airbrushes in that PM I sent you.
Re: Antiquing: Yes!! Using a thin wash can be used to great effect. I myself have used this method many times since I wrote the FAQs and tutorials and such. It creates a different effect than the thicker gel style application though. Using a wash requires a lot more ‘finesse’ as you have to watch where the paint pools and keep it off of areas where you don’t want it as it dries. If it drips somewhere or runs somewhere you don’t want it and it dries… it’s near impossible to remove and requires painting-over (much to my dismay as I’ve had this happen before). The result also tends to be a bit more translucent and sometimes the paint can dry in a darker ‘ring’ around the edges, with the paint being lightest in the middle of the recessed area. Think watercolors, if that helps… the effect can be similar. Still, it can be used to great effect as a glaze into the recesses. For those that are not familiar with it it can be tricky because the paint can still stick to raised areas as well if you are not used to the technique.
Also I should point out… since I work for Windstone I must always be thinking of the archival quality of what I do… that I must be careful not to thin the paint too much with water as it starts breaking down the polymer bonds in acrylic and MIGHT someday cause peeling or flaking (might being the key word). This truthfully does not seem to matter to the average painter… again I am stressing that I personally take great care because the pieces I do are official Windstone paint jobs.
Volunteer mod- I'm here to help! Email me for the best response: nambroth at gmail.com
My art: featherdust.comI’ve been using Games Workshop paint, as it is very durable and comes in a fairly large variety of colours. The downsides to this paint is that it comes in very small pots and it dries very quickly.
I live in Baton Rouge Louisiana and it is really humid here. Do you know what else I can use to finish my PYO, or how low does the humid has to be to spay my PYO. Thank Linda
I live in Baton Rouge Louisiana and it is really humid here. Do you know what else I can use to finish my PYO, or how low does the humid has to be to spay my PYO. Thank Linda
um i wouldnt recomend attempting to SPAY your windstone in any climate.
Recently married to the ever lovable BiPolarBear (little John)
www.weaselsoneasels.com | www.facebook.com/weaselsoneaselsAs seen on This is Life with Lisa Ling on CNN (2018) !
Always open for pyo commissions, repairs and fine artwork! Email me for current prices! awier(@)weaselsoneasels.com*snort* LOL!
Got a busted Windstone?
drag0nfeathersdesign@gmail.com
*OPEN for repairs**SEEKING GRAILS*
Arc-en-ciel Emperor
Siphlophis Male Dragon
Calypso Hatching Empress
Ivory Moss Sitting Baby Kirin
Tattoo Mother Kirin
Emerald Tabby Male Griffin
Tie Dye + Orion Hatching Royalty
Indigo Rockfish + Flame Tabby Little Rock Dragons
Dragon Quail + Obsidian Frost Old Warriors
Betta Sun Dragon + Male Dragon
Dreamscape, Orion, Poison Dart, Fireberry, Spangler + Tigerberry DragonsWell that was not clear was it. I have painted a pyo and I want to finish it with Krylon crystal clear gloss finish on the back of the can it says, “low humidity, do not use in high humidity.” Well here in Baton Rouse the humidity does not really go very low. If you do pyo what do you use to finish your pyo? If somebody uses a paint on finish that works well, please let me know.
Well that was not clear was it. I have painted a pyo and I want to finish it with Krylon crystal clear gloss finish on the back of the can it says, “low humidity, do not use in high humidity.” Well here in Baton Rouse the humidity does not really go very low. If you do pyo what do you use to finish your pyo? If somebody uses a paint on finish that works well, please let me know.
If the humidity gets high in the summer here (and, it always does..) I have used a brush on Liquitex finishing brush on gloss. You can get it in satin and matte too, I think. You just have to go slowly to avoid bubbles.
Volunteer mod- I'm here to help! Email me for the best response: nambroth at gmail.com
My art: featherdust.com
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