- This topic has 24 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 14 years, 3 months ago by .
-
Posts
-
Ok so I noticed this a while ago, and it baffles me. Some times I have seen it before, even on some production pieces occasionally, if you tilt them in the light just right..but not ALL over before! The affect is All over this one. It shows up especialy when the lighting is hitting it at an angle. I have to enhance the photo a little just so you could more clearly see, because it is not real easy to see in person.
Nothing has come off the sculpt and when I run my nail over it, it does not catch on anything. I want to sell her, but I am not sure how this will affect this will have in the long term, or if any one would even want an item with this odd finish.
I remember that was brought up in the Ask Melody section some time ago. I don’t recall what the reason was, or determined to be.
Do you use water to thin your paints instead of an agent? Perhaps that could do it? I don’t know.Kujacker wrote:I remember that was brought up in the Ask Melody section some time ago. I don’t recall what the reason was, or determined to be.
Do you use water to thin your paints instead of an agent? Perhaps that could do it? I don’t know.I use very little water, but if that were the case, more of the ones I do would have this affect and they don’t. Even the very first pyo I did in which I DID use a lot of water does not have this affect.
This is actually my husband commenting, he has an idea.
In using water soluable paint always use distilled h20 to eliminate the natural salts.
It is the salts that cracks the paint. Tap water has various amounts of salts depending on time of day and weather conditions. Always use distilled h20.He says that this could account for why some of a paintjob and not all of it is affected, that it is the impurities in the water at the time it was drawn, depends on time of day, weather conditions etc. He thinks it’s the paint and not the glaze, the glaze is just showing it up. He used to work for municipal water systems, and his dad and grandfather were painters.
That would make sense except for the fact that this crackle affect is over the entire piece. The Keeper is a large peice that takes me a few days worth of hours of painting to complete, so the water gets refreshed a lot. And often I paint more then one piece at the same time. The dragon and other pyo I had painted at the same time as this one does not have the affect.
Also, it looks in person that the paint layer is fine, the sealant looks to me to be the only thing crackled…
I know this isn’t oils paints, but when painting with oils, you have to worry about the “lean over fat” effect — top layers drying before the bottom ones.
If he was sealed, and the sealant dried before the paint finished drying (too thick), that could cause the upper layer to crack (the sealant). Possible, maybe? 😕
I hope I explained that well enough. lol 😳
I was wondering if it had something to do with water as well. I’ve heard you are supposed to use distilled water also, but it you’ve ruled that out for sure, I have a roofing/siding book with a section on house exterior painting, and it says that cracking like that can happen due to layers not fully dried before another layer or finish is applied over it. Not sure if that’s happening here.
Or something else, maybe the original gypsum was still wet and now is trying to release the moisture? Do you bath your models when you first get them? Or, correct me if I’m wrong, but I thought your tutorial had you doing a “wash” of water and paint over the piece at the very start? I thought Nam and Melody suggested letting the piece dry for several days if it gets wet when it’s bare. Could the gypsum have been retaining moisture from your first “antiquing” layer when you applied the first layer of acrylics over it?
Just throwing this stuff out there. Hopefully you get helpful info.
Well, for the idea of layers not being dry, I let my pieces sit over night before spraying them so the paint can dry first. In the case of this fella, he sat for days before I sprayed him because I was waiting to see if I spotted anything that needed to be changed or added. 🙂 So it definately is not that.
As far as I have experienced, acrylics do not have this crack/flake affect if you paint over a layer before it completely drys. I’ve done manny manny canvase and well up to(possibly over) 100 pyo’s now. It’s been a long time since I read on them, but I do not remember them having the same issue that oil paints do.
And as for the gypsom being wet, I do not think that would be it eather. For one, that should affect the paint as well as the clear coat…but in this case, the paint looks really good, just the clear coat cracked. I don’t dunk or soak my pyo’s. The water I use if VERY minimal. Actualy my technique is a little different now..but when I did use that technique with the water downed paint, it did not produce this affect. I know because I still have my first pyo in which I used a LOT of water in my paint..but he is fine, no crackle.
See, I always use water to thin and I’ve never had this problem…. weird.
Was it one of those PYOs that had to be dipped in water before painting because of salt residue???? Did anyone else get those letters with their PYOs?
Got a busted Windstone?
drag0nfeathersdesign@gmail.com
*OPEN for repairs**SEEKING GRAILS*
Arc-en-ciel Emperor
Siphlophis Male Dragon
Calypso Hatching Empress
Ivory Moss Sitting Baby Kirin
Tattoo Mother Kirin
Emerald Tabby Male Griffin
Tie Dye + Orion Hatching Royalty
Indigo Rockfish + Flame Tabby Little Rock Dragons
Dragon Quail + Obsidian Frost Old Warriors
Betta Sun Dragon + Male Dragon
Dreamscape, Orion, Poison Dart, Fireberry, Spangler + Tigerberry DragonsThe crackle look in those pictures kinda looks to me like plastic that’s been bent slightly creating micro cracks. Maybe the clear coat was a bit thick(I believe clear coat is more rigid than paint) and some expansion/contraction occurred cracking the clear coat.
This is a known effect! If you look up the product data on most aerosol spray clear coat finishes you will find mention of this exact phenomenon.
I’ve worked with many spray finishes for the last 15 years on probably what is a weekly basis. I’ve seen them do a lot of things….
This effect is called crazing (or cracking / surface fissure ), and it exists in the clear-coat layer only.
Applying multiple coats of clear coat may result in the development of tiny cracks or fissures. These are normally caused by force drying layers or applying the last coat before the underlying layers have sufficiently cured. I have noticed that this can depend GREATLY on the conditions you work in… temperature and humidity. So while one piece might do this, the next wont, etc etc as things tend to be in flux. The only thing you can do is wait for all layers to fully dry (I suspect this has already happened) and begin applying lighter coats until fissures have subsided. They may not subside at all!I personally have found that this does not effect the piece and haven’t found the crazing to collect dust or anything, so the integrity is okay.
Volunteer mod- I'm here to help! Email me for the best response: nambroth at gmail.com
My art: featherdust.comOh that is good to know! That makes sense too. I have to spray in the garauge and some times it gets pretty hot. This may have been one that I sprayed more then once too. I don’t think I want to spray her again, so this will be her special feature. They you for the info Nam! I really appreciate it. 🙂
Well… crackled.. crazed… no matter… I still want it! LOL! 😆
Got a busted Windstone?
drag0nfeathersdesign@gmail.com
*OPEN for repairs**SEEKING GRAILS*
Arc-en-ciel Emperor
Siphlophis Male Dragon
Calypso Hatching Empress
Ivory Moss Sitting Baby Kirin
Tattoo Mother Kirin
Emerald Tabby Male Griffin
Tie Dye + Orion Hatching Royalty
Indigo Rockfish + Flame Tabby Little Rock Dragons
Dragon Quail + Obsidian Frost Old Warriors
Betta Sun Dragon + Male Dragon
Dreamscape, Orion, Poison Dart, Fireberry, Spangler + Tigerberry Dragons
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
