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Yeral wrote:
I’ve so far just painted him green and given his horns and claws coats of gold. By no means is he done, but I am feeling somewhat uninspired right now, so I may have to put him on the shelf until I’m feeling it again.
Why does his tail remind me of eating lobster? Break the outer shell to get to the juicy pink meat inside…Dragon tail instead of Lobster tail D:
That dragon is freaking adorable! I love him 😀 . I’m totally addicted to sculpting with super sculpey.
Hahahahah That is the cuteist thing I have ever seen!!!
Thanks guys 🙂 I will finish him soonish, I just don’t want to ruin him by being uninspired (which I currently am in regards to his color scheme ><)
Commission spots are currently closed! Please message me for details.
Please visit My Webpage to see my art and PYO's that I've done in the past!Hehe.. thanks mmloda 🙂 He is still sitting on my shelf, staring at me, waiting for me to finish him 😆
I’ll do it eventually, I tell him, but he just keeps staring at meeee!
Commission spots are currently closed! Please message me for details.
Please visit My Webpage to see my art and PYO's that I've done in the past!Congrats on your first poly-sculpt! It sure looks cute!
I can indeed tell you, that super sculpey technically does not dry out, but it does get brittle and crumbly if left out exposed for long. Any of the poly clays do. The company that makes it, also sells a softening fluid that you kneed onto the crumbly clay to try and re-constitute it. A word of wisdom…NEVER LET IT GET CRUMBLY! …That is, unless you have hands of cast iron! OMG, I tried to re-constitute some super sculpey once, and my hands became bruised, and the next morning, swelled up to the point that I couldn’t close my hands! It literally took weeks for the pain to go away!
Whenever you buy some, if you can, open the box lid, and press your finger into it, before you buy. Some stores leave inventory on their shelves for years. If the clay gives easily to your finger pressing into it, you are good to go. If it seems as hard as leather, DON’T BUY IT!…Trust me, it is so not worth damaging your hands to try and soften it up.
Super Sculpey is my staple, I use it in nearly all my sculpts. I buy loads of it, and at $10.00 a pop, you do not want to take the risk of buying an old block. Once you get your clay home, transfer it to either glass Pyrex containers, or in heavy duty plastic zipper bags. Just wrapping the blocks in plastic wrap isn’t enough sealing protection. You can do both, if you do not plan to use your clay right away.
Another great tip I can offer, is basically a common sense one…unless you work in bubble, always cover your WIP’s with either a cake cover, or plastic bag when not working on them. They will attract dust, pet hair, etc. There is nothing worse than having to pick out bits of detritus from your beautiful work!
I can go on, and on about working with polymer clay, but I do not want to fill up this thread with chapters of information, so I will be brief, but informative.
Great tip #1: Work on your poly sculpt in stages. You can work on a section, then bake it, then work directly over the baked portion. The un-baked clay will bond with the baked clay in the next bake. You can do this several times with no Ill effects other than clay discoloration.
Tip #2: Use Sculpeys TLS liquid to help you blend seams and soften the clay. It will save you extra time and effort.
Tip #3: you can buff out fingerprints, by rubbing the un-baked clay briskly like you would to warm your hands. The friction can polish the clay to a satin finish. (this means, less sanding once baked)
Tip #4: You can bake other polymer clays with similar temp/duration times onto it, and they will molecularly bond to each other. This is very handy when you wish to use different types for reasons like strength, flexibility, and color enhancement.
I like to do this mainly because Sculpey Ultralight, can help make your sculpt lighter, and makes more delicate extremities stronger than regular Sculpey. Also there is a Sculpey that remains very flexible like bendi-dolls, and those areas where breaking is inevitable, it works great! Scenceable uses that type on her amazing Unicorn horns on her sculpts!
Tip #5: Fully cured polymer clay is still workable with carving tools. So…if you want to add even more fine detail, you can scratch it, carve it, sand it, and etch it.
Tip #6: This one is important! Always prime your finished poly sculpt with a compatible surface primer before you paint! I learned this the hard way.
I ran into a problem with some acrylic paints. If you do not prime it, no matter how long you wait for the paint to dry, it will remain tacky! 🙄 The worst acrylic paint, that does this is the Golden brand light bodied acrylic. My Coffee Dragon is still Tacky after THREE YEARS! It is the darn Raw Umber Hue…Before I used the paint:
After I used the paint: :nea:
Maybe that is why this guy reamains in his unfinished state. 🙁 I hope that when I paint over most of the Umber, that he will be less tacky. If this occurs to any poly sculpt you have painted, the only way to remove the tackiness, is to seal it with a water based varnish or polyurethane. …Someday I will get the gumption to finish him. Here are some other Images of Poly Sculpts in various states of completion:
So, Yeah… If anyone has more questions, I am happy to answer all of them to the very best of my ability. :yes:
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