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For me it typically takes more than one layer of paint to be sure an area is completely covered. Especially if you are using a dark color (like black – white pin pricks will be the bane of your exsistance). So I try to use thin layers until the color looks smooth and solid. The emerald kirin I’m working on right now has at least five layers of paint on the scales right now and I’m still not happy with them so there will be even more layers before I’m through.
pegasi1978 wrote:And those bottles will last a good long time too.
Unless you drop them on the floor with the cap off. Then you’re real happy you have ceramic flooring. Yup, uhuh.
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http://www.sarahjestin.com/feedbacklists.htmdragonmedley wrote:pegasi1978 wrote:And those bottles will last a good long time too.
Unless you drop them on the floor with the cap off. Then you’re real happy you have ceramic flooring. Yup, uhuh.
That or you don’t have the lid screwed on tight and it dries out.
With how thick acrylic is though I’m afraid I’d goop up all the details, are you watering down the paint?
agreed, read those tutorials, they are great!
The pastels i use are both hard and soft, but not waxy. They are the constistency of chaulk. The hards I shave up with a razor blade, the softs I can just go over the stick with my brush and get powder. I really like them because i can get an airbrushed type look, I have complete control over shading and I can a great depth of color without losing detail on the sculpt. Do a layer or layers of dust, spray, layer/s, spray, etc…until you are happy. The process can take longer then paint, but I’m always happier with my end results when I pastel vs. just paints…
I’m utterly and completely talentless at paper drawing. No, really, I can’t even draw stick figures right.
But I loved my first PYO, completely screwed up a few things, but learned heaps – and I’m completely happy with him, and he’s on display (ie, he’s good enough that I’ll keep him in my living room!).
And now I’m hooked.
(I use the Folk Art acrylics, mostly the metallics, too.)
Yep, there’s a thread here. I’m waiting for PYO Secret Keepers before I buy any more!
(Speaking of which, how far away are they? Does anyone know?)
Mahal wrote:Yep, there’s a thread here. I’m waiting for PYO Secret Keepers before I buy any more!
(Speaking of which, how far away are they? Does anyone know?)
I don’t think Melody will ever do PYO SECRET keepers, but she has already put out a batch of smaller Keeper dragons, which are the size of the production Male dragon-roughly 9 inches tall 🙂 They are sold out now, but they will be making more when they get the factory up and running again in Oregon in a few months 🙂
*chuckles* I fail at jargon, apparently. The existing sold-out keepers are the ones I’m referring to. Ah well, guess I’ll just have to be Patient..
tatt2dcowgrl wrote:asinnamon wrote:Ditto! Just give a try. I cannot draw more then stick figures, but it seems easier for me to ‘think’ in 3D. I started w/ acrylics and pastels. Even now I still prefer to work with pastels. I got an airbrush for xmas, so I have been adding that element as well. I really like it for base coating.
Pastels as in the waxy crayon type?
😯 NO NO, soft pastels not crayon because those have oil and that will not do. Here’s a link to some.
http://www.dickblick.com/categories/pastels/#softpastelsets
And here is a tutorial on pasteling with soft pastels:
http://www.equinartcreations.com/HowtoPastel.htmlYou can ask help here:
http://www.utterlyhorses.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=25
http://www.phpbbplanet.com/forum/pastelchat.htmlThanks guys for all your help 🙂 I’ll read through some of those sites and links you guys provided
I use acrylics, myself. I’ve never handled an airbrush, and even if I could afford one I’d want to try it out on several cheap throwaway objects before I tried doing someting as small, complicated, and (relatively) expensive as a Windstone.
I don’t “paint good on paper” (I’m not sure if you mean, do I also paint on 2D surfaces, or do I draw out the pattern for the PYO on paper, but either way the answer is no.) 🙂
I tend to think up a basic idea, along the lines of “okay, I want a blue dragon with some interference on his large scales and gold accents” and then sit down and start. Once I’ve got the base coat on and filled in some accents, I stare at him a bit and realize “he needs more gold — maybe if I brush a little on those big round scales…” Once I’ve done that, I stare again and think that the int erference isn’t standing out enough, so maybe if I splashed a little black in the center of the scales…
And basically that’s how I came up with the first PYO dragon I did (pictures here: http://www.windstoneeditions.com/galleries/index.php?cat=10045).
I’ve had a few art classes, but they were basic High School Art, no 3D painting involved. 🙂 So all my knowledge of shading is pretty much self-taught. I started out painting model horses (and boy, if you want to talk about “blobs of paint” your should’ve seen my first couple efforts), so I’ve had a little practice — but that was on relatively flat, broad surfaces, with a completely different texture and absorbency.
If you want to practice a little, most craft stores sell cheap unpainted ceramic figurines — might be a good way to get “practice critters” and mess around with colors and shading and so on, if you’ve never picked up a brush before.
tatt2dcowgrl wrote:Are most of you guys painting the pyo’s good on paper? And are most of you using airbrushes or acrylics or..?
I’m so afraid I’m just going to end up with a glob of paint since I don’t really know how to shade with paint or anything like that really.
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Thanks for the help! I took many art classes in high school but never really was a painter I always wanted to draw everything in pencil. That’s a good idea though about the cheap ceramic figures!
I would LOVE to be able to CM breyers and stones and resins but I pretty much gave up on that idea being as I’d never get one looking realistic horse colored. But with the dragons and griffins and such they can be any color my imagination wants them to be! 🙂
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