- This topic has 11 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 17 years, 5 months ago by .
-
Posts
-
O.K. something else I am not quite clear on…the subject of gold filigree or leafing or whatever it is called. How does the gold get on these sculptures? Is it real gold? What if I wanted to use some on my sculptures, is it allowed? Or does that fall under the copyrite issue? Thanks for the clarification.
Most folks (including Windstone) use the deco art pens/painty pens. The intro to the site says its a copywrite thing. I know folks (Like me 😳 ) still do it.
If you’re talking about production pieces, only a few that have been sold over Ebay have been done using real gold leaf. Standard run pieces have gold accents made with a gold paint marker. I think Deco is the brand that they recommend for those trying to fix damaged gold parts. Anyway, Melody has stated in the past that copying the coloration and patterning of her creations onto like dragons, griffins, etc. would be a violation of copyright and infringement on her artistic style, if I remember right. So the answer would be that you could still use gold accents, but not so as to mimic production pieces.
Forever seeking: Blackwatch the raffle Old Warrior, Jennifer Miller's pieces, and GB Baby unis!
Oh! Whoops. Guess you may be talking about the leafing. Sorry. Yes, its real gold leaf. Nam can tell you how its done and how much of a pain it is. It has only been done on a few items and they were limited editions and OOAK items.
So where is the best place to get those pens? or the real gold filigree? I have an idea for what I am going to term a thunder lizard. I do not believe that I have seen anyone else use it the way I plan too.
Only special pieces have real leaf on them, because it’s very expensive and messy and a pain in my rump to do! :lol:. If you just want some nice gold colored accents, a metallic gold paint pen is the way to go.
Zelda was correct about the trade dress/copyright issue (though it’s John that said it). You are allowed to use gold or other color accents as long as it doesn’t look like a Windstone piece. I hope that makes sense.If you really want to put genuine leaf on something (I’ve done both 23k gold and aluminum- just leafed aluminum onto the momma labradorite griffin last night), set aside about $100, some patience, and about 80 grey hairs, and I’d be glad to help you learn how! 😉
Volunteer mod- I'm here to help! Email me for the best response: nambroth at gmail.com
My art: featherdust.comhardwired wrote:So where is the best place to get those pens? or the real gold filigree? I have an idea for what I am going to term a thunder lizard. I do not believe that I have seen anyone else use it the way I plan too.
I use Krylon brand pens sometimes.
http://www.wilde-ideas.com/Vndrs/Kry/LeafPens.htmlYou can find them at nearly any craft store, or even…. *whispers* Walmart. >_> <_<
Volunteer mod- I'm here to help! Email me for the best response: nambroth at gmail.com
My art: featherdust.comO.K., for the real gold, yes I want to do that. I can think of no more deserving pieces than these dragons. I will have to budget for the stuff but I expect that I will be back to take you up on those lessons. And I will be reading here if you want to get a jump start on me. I have some pens on order but its the real gold that appeals to me, maybe for a personal piece.
Actually…
Permacal.
Search for it – there a number of SCA vendors that sell it but some art stores as well. It’s the BEST leafing sizing I’ve EVER used. Only one application required the times I’ve used it – sometimes two on large areas.
That said, for ease, get real gold leaf if you’re going ot use it. The aluminum/fake stuff is such a pain in the rear.
But yah Permacal, making life easier for SCA illuminators all over the world.
(the basics, apply sizing. Let dry. Use hot breath to moisten sizing. Apply gold. Burnish (or just a soft cloth with the permacal) )
As a side note it may also be spelled Permacol. My bottle is in a box getting shipped with my entire house so I can’t check it right now.
Here are some links to get you started…
Oil gilding is probably the easiest way to go.
http://www.gildedplanet.com/howtogoldleaf.asp
http://www.goldreverre.com/technique/oilgilding.htmlIf you want Patent leaf (this is leaf that is stuck on tissue paper until you apply it), this is what I recommend to start with. The problem is that there is a lot more waste. It’s also VERY hard to get it into recessed areas or highly textured ones (like scales..)
Loose, or surface leaf will waste less but it’s much harder to handle. You will need a gilder’s tip to handle it or it will tear in your fingers and stick to the oils in your skin.
Here are the different leafs; the bk price is per 25 sheet book. I barely did a PYO dragon with one 25 sheet book. I use Monarch brand; I don’t know how the other brands look.
Anything labeled ‘composition’ or ‘imitation’ leaf means that there is no real gold in it. It’s fake. But cheaper!
http://www.gildedplanet.com/goldleaf.aspHere are gilder’s tips if you buy the loose leaf:
http://www.gildedplanet.com/gildingbrushes.aspYou will need sizing. I use the quick dry size. Sizing is the ‘glue’ to which the leaf sticks.
http://www.gildedplanet.com/oilsizing_home.aspAnd the sealers to finish it all off:
http://www.gildedplanet.com/sealers.aspIf you have some soft brushes you can use those for burnishing. Otherwise you will have to buy some.
Note that the sizing is oil based and you will need turps or paint thinner to clean up after it. The sizing is stinky and must be used with ventilation- same with clean up. These fumes ARE harmful. Remember to dispose of paint thinners appropriately or they can cause environmental damage.
Volunteer mod- I'm here to help! Email me for the best response: nambroth at gmail.com
My art: featherdust.com
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
