Home › Forums › Miscellany › Community › Repair question- porcelain/metal figure
- This topic has 14 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 3 months ago by pipsxlch.
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February 17, 2015 at 1:03 am #507814
Thanks to some lovely people buying some things, I’ve been able to buy a figurine on eBay with great sentimental value. It was damaged, so I got it for a good price. It is a fine, thin porcelain fish that is (or is supposed to be) swimming through metal blades of eelgrass. The fish has become separated from the blades, otherwise it is sound. So, does anyone know what would be best to reglue or otherwise affix the fish to the blade of metal? It does look like there was a failed attempt in the past. (glue running down blade; dark blotch on fish that almost looks like metal weld but maybe is from manufacturer’s original affixing?) Time to set doesn’t matter, I just want it done right.
February 17, 2015 at 1:14 am #925862E6000 glue works with most things where super glue does not. It does have a very strong odor, so you should have a bit of ventilation while it dries (24-48 hours to be completely dry). You would need to make sure you have a way to keep it still while the glue sets up. It’s pretty inexpensive and I’ve used it for quite a few projects.
February 17, 2015 at 1:36 am #925867Thanks! I saw that at Walmart, but figured I’d ask more knowledgeable people here first. Bracing it for a couple days isn’t a problem, nor is the odor- I can do it outside, I’m in Florida.
My grandfather- the parent I was closest to- had given me one of these when I was a kid only to have the cats shatter it, so this really does mean a lot thank you.Should I try to remove the glue traces from the metal blade first? I don’t dare try to scrape anything off the fish, but I could always paintmatch the grass blade.
February 17, 2015 at 2:42 am #925874Can you post a picture of it and tell us the size? Without that, my first comment would be that the repair will only be as strong as the weakest glue if you don’t completely clean it. Second comment would be that E6000 may stick to most things, but I don’t think it would do as well as epoxy if there is a gap to fill, or not sufficient surface area.
February 17, 2015 at 2:52 am #925875To glue really random materials to each-other, E6000 is unmatched.
As a minor heads up, about 10 years ago, I glued some upholstery leather to some aluminum with E6000, and recently noticed that where it seeped out, it turned yellow/brown. So while I love the stuff and have had no problems with its strength, it may not remain clear long-term.
I second that a photo, and getting the gluing surfaces as clean as possible, sounds wise.
February 17, 2015 at 11:18 pm #925923Thanks for all the replies! Here’s some pics from the auction; the weather isn’t cooperative to take any of my own today. Hopefully tomorrow I can.
Here’s a pic I found of a sound one.
Edit err those are TINY! I’ll get some more ASAP. I’ll measure it also (it’s out in the shed), but the fish is roughly 7″ from lips to where the tail folds over.
February 19, 2015 at 12:33 am #925958February 19, 2015 at 2:46 am #925962Thanks for the pictures. This sure looks like a job for a good epoxy to me. And maybe, because you have dissimilar materials that can expand and shrink at different rates, one that is not too brittle. Is the fish color fired on, or painted? If it is fired on, you should be able to find a solvent that will remove the old glue. However, it did break clean from the metal, so maybe you can just sand or file it down to the original glue on the fish and epoxy it to the metal. Usually it is best to sand metal with coarse sandpaper before gluing and apply the glue to the metal before it re-oxidizes. I think I wouldn’t be afraid to use something like J B Weld epoxy for this as it is reputed to stick well to metal, but I would also make sure it is recommended for glass. You will have to touch it up with paint, no matter what you use, so clear or opaque shouldn’t matter much. I found some J B Weld (which is opaque) in very small tubes, or syringes. It is the old type of epoxy that smells like a Binturong. We use a somewhat flexible clear epoxy from 3M for glass, but it isn’t available in small tubes.
August 7, 2016 at 5:23 pm #1488451Have you tried “Gorilla Glue”? I have had good luck with it on a variety of materials and find that it works better than “Krazy Glue”.
Life is beautiful.
August 8, 2016 at 8:02 am #1488564Please note that this topic was created a year and a half ago, and it’s entirely possible it’s been resolved by now. 🙂
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My art: featherdust.comAugust 8, 2016 at 12:17 pm #1488623Please note this topic was created a year and a half ago, and it’s entirely possible it’s been resolved by now.
I see that. However, when I responded, the topic was in the current list.
Life is beautiful.
August 9, 2016 at 2:26 am #1488747Someone else had commented this month as well, before Scathach. Although I see that other comment is now gone ( ? ) I didn’t think comments could be edited, but, evidently they can be deleted.
August 9, 2016 at 10:10 am #1488844The other comment was spam.
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My art: featherdust.comAugust 10, 2016 at 3:02 pm #1489206Oh – oops! Guess I didn’t pay that much attention to it. Sorry! 🙂
August 18, 2016 at 1:38 pm #1491339Thanks for the responses! Actually haven’t repaired it yet- right after these postings, I went out of town for a few months helping family and packed it away, have yet to dig it back up. Since it’s safe where it is and I don’t have a place to display it, I figured I’d leave it be for the time being. Maybe some new sort of super epoxy will come out on the market before I get to it- has anyone tried those UV-set ones?
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