Home › Forums › Windstone Editions › Paint-Your-Own Windstone › Koishii PYO painting tutorial v.1
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September 19, 2007 at 4:59 am #618268
So here is my attempt at something like a tutorial.
I am using the photos i took of tc_cat333’s commision for them. Some are not really good photos, so i will replace them later with ones from the next pyo.This pyo is eyeless. I did not buy it that way, i took them out. pls be careful if you try to take eyes out of pyo’s, they do break.
So, step one is staining my pyo. I tend to use black and another color. in this case black and ultramarine blue. I’ll dip my brush in water, dip it in the paint, then brush it on. i get more water on my brush to thin and move the paint. I generally end up with my paint thinned to the consistency of water colors but i thin it mostly when the paint is on the pyo. this lets it stain darker in all the crevices but leave the top surface of the scales mostly white.
In order to do this, hold your pyo upside down. you want the waterd paint to run into the crevices and do it is small bits, letting the watered paint soak into the gypsom/dry for a few seconds before going onto the next spot.
Here is a photo of what it looks like after:
here is a better picture of a previouse dragon after the paint dried:
Now I add non-metalic color. Starting with two different blues on this one, this time i make sure the paint on my brush is thinned to a water color consistancy but i do not load my brush with water. this adds color but keeps the paint layer thin so that it does not fill in the details of the sculpt. This also stains the white parts with the color i want for the base.
more of the colors are going on. you can see the parts that still do not have color. main point: THIN PAINT
Now all my base colors are on! the wings are going to be white, so i left them..but you can see with the thin paint, it lets the darker paint show through but still gives color.
Here is a shot of my pallet with my pyo. you can see where i pulled paint and thinned it on the pallet before applying it to the pyo.
actualy the one i usualy use looks like this:
http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img2183mv3.jpgso about thinning paint. you can do this a few ways. I dip my brush in water first, then into the paint and i wipe the bristles back and forth on a clean part of my pallet to take off extra paint. this thins only the amount of paint i intend to use at that moment. if it feels to dry, i dip the tip/corner of the bristles in the water. If it feels to wet, i touch the base of the bristles to my towel for a second. keep checking that you do not have too little or too much water in the bristles. you want the paint to flow some, but not run.
If it is too dry and the paint just applies to one spot, dip your brush in the water(not so it drips) and go over the spot. it will thin your paint on the pyo and let you spread it. if there is too much water when you apply it, dab it lightly with a kleen-x or your thumb.
ok, now I go to metallics. I DO THE SAME THING. this time i really make sure to thin it out with water. I want the metallic flakes spreed out so water is really useful. metal paint flakes tend to clump together when you use it in thin amounts and this can make patches of really sparkley spots..so make sure the paint works evenly into the bristles. So now thin metalic paint over the thin base paints. Again i started with blue. See my brush? THAT is how much paint i use at a time. REALLY thin.
If you the paint does not have enough water and you get a clump of metallic flakes, that is harder to fix.
Ok. all done with the metallics. this is where I am at so far. It does not look very different. in fact the difference is very slight, and i will be going over again with more thin layers of metallic paint before i get to the next steps in my process, but it does make a big difference in the end result.
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Part 2So I got some more finished. before i get to that, something about water. When i dip my brush in the water i wipe the bristles aganst the edge of the bottle to take of excess water. Then i brush the bristles across my hand to see how much water there is in the bristles. The bristles should be moist but not leave excess water on my skin. if there is too much water i brush the bristles back and forth on my hand or on a towel then test it against my hand to make sure it is only moist. That is all the water I need.
some times i need a little more water for the metallics, but not much.
After that i dip the bristles in a little paint then wipe them back and forth on the pallete to thin the paint and load it into the bristles.
Here is a short(crumby) video of the PYO getting painted:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DK-KaW203Ggok, onward.
I went back over a few times with the metallics to build up the color. it’s not a lot but enough to show color with out covering up the dark spots completely:
I save the wings for almost last. I use some blue metalic paint to brush into the crevices and then i brushed pearl and some gold over it. water is importand here, if i had too much water, the pearl/gold would have ran and covered the blue.
just a shot of the pallete and brush while whiping my brush back and forth to show how little paint gets used at once. it does not seem like that little paint would do anything, but if you build it up slowly, it does:
So now I have been working on interference. pretty much i do the same thing, thin paint on the brush. the thing with interference is I don’t want it to get into/run into the crevices of the scales. so really make sure the bristles are only moist. it only needs a little water. I also brush over the top of the scales going with them, instead of brushing the paint into the scales. I may go over one spot 3-4 times with the paint before it is just the way I like it. The camera is realy cheap and showing the interference well, but here is a photo any wya:
Finished with the interference, now to darken the crevices of the scales. The first thing i use is a broad brush. I chose black and blue again, mixing them on the pallet just a little. I tend to use a little more water then before and again turn my pyo upside down so that gravity does the work. I’ll use the bristles to rub in the paintt, then let it sit there for a moment, then use my hand to wipe off any excess paint sitting on the scales:
Depending on the other scales, like on the tail, you might want to tilt your pyo a different direction. as long as the paint is directed into the scales.Here i started on the belly scales.:
once i get that finished, then i go back to some of the bigger scales that are on the side,chest,tail and i use a smaller flat brush. I go back to using the thin paint with little water and i line each scale, touching the tip of the bristling to the base of the scale. if extra paint gets on the scale i use my finger right away and lightly rub it up into the scale. my fingers are all black by the end of this:
After all that work here is what it looks like! not finished yet though, i need to go over again with the interference to brighten things up and paint those horns, then it will be finished.
Ok, so for finishing it up, I once again go over and add more interference where ever I think there needs to be more. this really livens the colors up. All the gold is now added too.
For the spines on the scales, I use interference instead of gold for them.
I put the eyes in and the gem for photos to see how the dragon will look as a whole before i spray the sealant:September 19, 2007 at 4:59 am #492661This is a very old painting tutorial, if you read through it, please also note Nambroths comment.
September 19, 2007 at 5:12 am #618269Oh wow! Thank you for sharing this!! *Bows*
September 19, 2007 at 5:15 am #618270That’s helpful, Koishii. Thank you.
Nice bracelet, by the way.September 19, 2007 at 5:18 am #618271Ravnheart wrote:Oh wow! Thank you for sharing this!! *Bows*
you are very welcome!
September 19, 2007 at 5:18 am #618272Greater Basilisk wrote:That’s helpful, Koishii. Thank you.
Nice bracelet, by the way.you’re welcome GB.
Thanx, I have worn that bracelet for almost 3 years now.
September 19, 2007 at 11:10 am #618273Now I need to buy another PYO to try this method. 🙂
September 19, 2007 at 11:30 am #618274Do you use the same technique for painting wolves?
Read my books! Volume 1 and 2 of A Dragon Medley are available now.
http://www.sarahjestin.com/mybooks.htm
I host the feedback lists, which are maintained by drag0nfeathers.
http://www.sarahjestin.com/feedbacklists.htmSeptember 19, 2007 at 2:18 pm #618275very cool! 😀
September 19, 2007 at 2:53 pm #618276Thank you for sharing…I always wondered about your technique. I will had a link to this tutorial in the IMPORTANT LINKS in the Introductory and Welcoming Area so new members can see it. 😀
September 19, 2007 at 2:56 pm #618277dragonmedley wrote:Do you use the same technique for painting wolves?
for par of it i do. the wolves require a few different techniques though, like dry brush, because the fur texture will affect how the paint applies to the pyo.
when i get another wolf, i will add a tutorial for the wolves onto this one.
September 19, 2007 at 3:17 pm #618278Just as a warning, if you thin acrylic paint with water at a ratio of more than 1 part water to 3-4 parts acrylic, depending on the brand, it chemically breaks down the bonds in the acrylic polymers and can cause the paint to adhere poorly to itself or other smooth surfaces. Though this may not be a problem that is evident immediately or even within a few months, there is a possiblity that in the long term the paint may start to appear ‘crackled’ or flaky underneath any final clearcoat you apply. i.e. this tends to be an archival issue rather than an immediate one (though if you notice your paint flaking or peeling off as you work, you know for sure it’s toooo thin!). For best results I always recommend using a polymer thinner. 🙂
(The only reason I worry about this so much is that all the pieces I do have to be of Windstone quality and archival 🙂 )Volunteer mod- I'm here to help! Email me for the best response: nambroth at gmail.com
My art: featherdust.comSeptember 19, 2007 at 8:41 pm #618279Thanks Koishii. Not only had I wondered about your technique (while I havent been able to afford commissioning you, Im a fan of your work). Ironic that I came across your tutorial on staining as Ive been curious about staining and antiquing appearances. I started to become overly interested in the idea because of something I signed on to do recently and want to encorporate (hopefully) this technique. It would be the first time anywhere and Im nervous to try it but I guess you dont learn unless you take a leap of faith. At least I know no one will be out any money!
September 19, 2007 at 9:05 pm #618280Nambroth wrote:Just as a warning, if you thin acrylic paint with water at a ratio of more than 1 part water to 3-4 parts acrylic, depending on the brand, it chemically breaks down the bonds in the acrylic polymers and can cause the paint to adhere poorly to itself or other smooth surfaces. Though this may not be a problem that is evident immediately or even within a few months, there is a possiblity that in the long term the paint may start to appear ‘crackled’ or flaky underneath any final clearcoat you apply. i.e. this tends to be an archival issue rather than an immediate one (though if you notice your paint flaking or peeling off as you work, you know for sure it’s toooo thin!). For best results I always recommend using a polymer thinner. 🙂
(The only reason I worry about this so much is that all the pieces I do have to be of Windstone quality and archival 🙂 )thanks for the warning Nam!
September 19, 2007 at 9:24 pm #618281Ah Koishii, thanks! This is very generous of you, though I think even with the tutorial you will remain unique in your style. I still love my 2 Koishii pyos.
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